Memory figurines are made to be held, but they are not indestructible. If you have commissioned a 3D printed piece of your bearded dragon, corn snake, or macaw, a few simple habits will keep it looking right for years.
What these pieces are made of
Our 3D printed figurines are built from resin, layer by layer, then finished by hand. The result is a solid object with a matte or satin surface, depending on the piece. It is not ceramic, not stone, and not metal. That matters for how you treat it. Resin is tough but can chip at thin points — a tail tip, a claw, the edge of a crest. It also softens slightly in sustained heat, so a sunny windowsill is not the place for it.
Because every piece is made to order from your photographs, you will see a white-model or work-in-progress approval before the final version is finished. That is your chance to check the shape of a casque, the curl of a tail, the way a chameleon’s eye sits. Nothing proceeds without your yes. Once the piece arrives, the care is mostly about avoiding the obvious mistakes.
Handling: less is more
You will want to pick it up. That is fine. But do it with clean, dry hands, and lift from the base rather than an outstretched limb. If the piece has a stand, use the stand. If it does not, cup the body. Avoid gripping a thin tail or a delicate frill.
Do not use gloves with a rough texture. Cotton gloves can leave fibres; latex can leave a residue. Bare hands are better, as long as they are not oily. If you have been eating, wash and dry first.
Reptile and bird owners often keep a piece on a desk or shelf within reach. That is the point of it. Just be aware that frequent handling will eventually dull the surface slightly. A soft cloth and a little patience will bring it back.
Dusting and cleaning
Dust is the main enemy of a good finish. A soft, dry paintbrush — the kind used for watercolours — is ideal for getting into crevices. Use it lightly, and work from top to bottom. Do not press.
For a deeper clean, use a barely damp cloth with plain water. No soap, no alcohol, no glass cleaner. Those can cloud the surface or leave streaks. Wipe once, then dry immediately with a soft, lint-free cloth. Do not submerge the piece in water, and do not run it under a tap.
If you have a piece with a felted component — a wool felt pet pendant, for example — keep water away from the fibre entirely. Wool can be spot-cleaned with a slightly damp cloth, but it will mat if rubbed. Let it air dry away from direct heat.
Light and heat
Ultraviolet light will fade the finish over time, and heat can warp thin sections. Keep your figurine out of direct sun and away from radiators, heat lamps, and reptile enclosures with basking bulbs. A shelf on an interior wall is safer than a windowsill.
If you live in a hot climate, avoid storing the piece in a car or an attic. Resin is stable at normal room temperatures, but it is not invincible.
Travel and moving
If you need to transport your figurine, wrap it in acid-free tissue or a soft cloth, then place it in a rigid box with padding around all sides. Do not use newspaper — the ink can transfer. Do not use bubble wrap directly against the surface for long periods, as it can leave marks on a matte finish.
For a full-body sculpture or a larger piece, consider having the original packaging kept for this purpose. If you no longer have it, a sturdy shoe box with foam inserts works well.
What can be repaired, and what cannot
Small chips and scratches can sometimes be repaired. A clean break at a thin point — a tail, a toe, a horn — can often be reattached with care. But repair is not always invisible, and it is not always possible. If a piece has shattered into many parts, or if a large section has deformed, replacement is usually the better answer.
We do not offer a repair service for pieces damaged after delivery. What we can do is remake the piece from your original photographs, at the same price as the original commission. That is not ideal, but it is honest. If you are buying a memory figurine for a child or in a household with cats, think about where it will live. A high shelf is kinder than a low one.
Felted pieces are different. Wool can be re-needled in some cases, but colour matching is difficult and the repair may show. If a felted pendant gets wet and mats, it is usually permanent.
Which pieces suit which keepers
Not every format suits every animal. A 3D printed figurine works well for reptiles with clear silhouettes — a bearded dragon, a leopard gecko, a royal python. The Essential figurine captures the shape and markings; the Studio Edition adds finer detail for species with complex texture, like a chameleon or a monitor.
For birds, a 3D printed pet statue can hold a pose — a cockatiel’s crest, a macaw’s beak — better than a flat portrait. For snakes and lizards where the whole body matters, a full-body sculpture is the most faithful option.
If your animal is small and delicate — a betta fish, a tree frog — a felted piece or a framed portrait may serve you better. Resin can be too heavy for very fine fins or toes. That is not a flaw; it is a question of matching the material to the subject.
When to leave it alone
The best care is often no care. A figurine on a shelf, dusted occasionally, will outlast most of us. Do not polish it. Do not try to improve the finish. Do not pick at a loose fleck. If something goes wrong, contact us and we will tell you honestly whether it can be fixed.
These pieces are made by hand in a small studio, six to fourteen weeks from order to delivery. They are not mass-produced, and they are not meant to be handled like toys. Treated with a little sense, a memory figurine will stay with you for a long time.
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Occasional notes from the studio: new pieces, what we are working on, and the questions customers ask most. No offers, and you can leave at any time.
